Ok, so now we have the list of plants that do well in this growing media ... now we need to know, HEY ... HOW do I do this? I found a GREAT site that tells you step by step, including how to take an already potted plant and CONVERT it to hydroponics! http://www.hydro-culture.net/#hydroculture_plants One of the great things about this is that you do not need to spend a lot of money nor have a fancy set up! And we're not talking about Aquatic Plants for an Aquarium or Pond, either!


Here's an excerpt from the site:

"Converting Plants
The easiest method I have found for converting a houseplant to hydroculture is to use one that has been water rooted because the root system seems to be slightly different to one that has been grown in soil. The method I use is to take a soft stemmed cutting and suspending it in a container full of water, this can be done by placing a piece of cardboard on the top of the container and putting the cutting through a hole in the centre. The cutting is put somewhere where it will get light but not direct sunlight and also somewhere that is not too hot. The water in the container is changed every few days to stop it becoming stagnent. When a good root system has developed the cardboard is carefully removed from the plant avoiding damaging the plant, the plant is then transferred to hydroculture as described in the containers section. Then I place the plant into a propagator or place a transparent plastic bag, with air holes, over it to keep the humidity high for up to 1 month and I also use only water, not nutrient solution, for this time.

Although water rooting is possibly the most reliable method of getting a houseplant into hydroculture, it is not my preferred method. I'm a little impatient and I like to see quick results, therefore I prefer to convert a soil (compost) rooted houseplant. I always use young houseplants as large or established ones may be more difficult to convert to hydroculture. The method I use is detailed below:

I soak the plant, in its pot, in room temperature tapwater up to the height of the top of the soil for approximately one hour. This helps soften the soil from around the roots.
Remove the plant from the pot, place the plant roots back into a bucket of clean room temperature water and agitate to remove most of the soil.
Remove the plant from the bucket and run room temperaure clean water over the roots until all the soil is removed. It is important to remove ALL the soil.
Cut off any dead roots. Trimming the roots a little seems to help the plant establish better.
The plant is place into a hydroculture pot as described in the containers section.
Water only is added, no nutrients.
I don't add nutrient solution for approximately 4 weeks, only water. The plant will be very sensitive until it has grown a new root system so it will need nurturing for a few weeks, to do this I place the plant into a propagator or place a transparent plastic bag, with air holes, over it to keep the humidity high.
Containers
I currently use the pot and saucer method. This uses pots made of an inert material such as plastic. Plants need converting before they are used in hydroculture.

Pot and Saucer:
This method uses a standard plant pot, with bottom drainage holes, which is placed into a large plant pot saucer. A saucer which is larger than the usual size for the pot is chosen so that it can work as a reservoir, I try to select one that will hold enough nutrient solution for approximately 1 week. The nutrient solution is stored in the saucer. It is possible to get transparent saucers and these make the checking of the nutrient solution level even easier. If several plants are grown in close proximity then, instead of using a seperate saucer for each plant, a large watertight tray can be used to house several pots. A tray without drainage holes is used such as a garden tray or a gravel tray, this is filled with enough nutrient solution to last for approximately 1 week.

Pot in Pot Method:
This is very similar to the pot and saucer method above except that the plant pot is placed into an watertight pot container instead of a saucer. A plastic pot container which is slightly larger internally than the plant pot, by approximately 1cm all round, is chosen. This allows space which will act as the reservoir. With this method it is more difficult to see the nutrient level, so the pot either needs taking out or a level indicator needs to be used in order to check the nutrient level. Alternatively a transparent plastic pot container can be used but this possibly defeats one of the reason for using a pot container i.e. it does not disguise the plant pot. With this method I try to get a nutrient level height of approximately 1/4 of the inner pot. The level is measured when the system is assembled, i.e. when the fully potted plant pot is placed inside the plant pot container.

Potting
Houseplants need converting prior to being used in hydroculture, refer to the converting plants section on this page. Potting is done in a similar way to potting in soil except that aggregate is used. Aggregate is place in the bottom of the pot to approximately 1/3 the height of the pot, the plant roots are held suspended in the pot then aggregate is poured around the roots to the same height as the plant was originally potted. I waggle the plant and tap the pot to ensure that the aggregate fully surrounds the roots then run room temperature tap water through it.

When a plant is first transferred to hydroculture the roots sit in the clay pebbles and not the water/nutrient solution, the plants roots will receive moisture from the reservoir through the capillary action of the aggregate. This is why the base of the pot is filled with clay pebbles and the roots are placed on top of them. It is also necessary to ensure that the reservoir is not too deep as this will also cause the roots to sit in the water/nutrient solution. When the plant is established it may grow roots downwards into the reservoir, this seems to be OK with the plants I have grown.

Nutrient Level
A nutrient solution is made following the manufacturers instructions and this is then added to the pot and allowed to drain through into the reservoir, being careful to not overfill the reservoir. I allow the level to fall until no nutrient solution is in contact with the bottom of the pot before adding more. Some plant pots have feet on the bottom of them which stand the base of the pot off of the reservoir by a few millimetres, with these I don't let the reservoir empty, I top it up when the nutrient level falls to the top of the feet. When the reservoir has emptied the aggregate can dry out quickly, especially on hot days. Some plants are not tolerant of dry aggregate so I add nutrient solution as soon as the reservoir empties.

As mentioned there are slow release resin nutrients available, these are usually added to the aggregate or reservoir, depending on the manufacturers instructions, and will release nutrients slowly for several months. If these are used then it is only necessary to add water to the plants. The resin will need re-adding when they are exhausted.

Tapwater is used for making the nutrient solution. I allow this to stand for several hours to reach room temperature."

I also found an article here: http://www.wikihow.com/Grow-Houseplants-in-Water-(Hydroculture) and http://www.answers.com/topic/hydroponics?cat=health&initiator=3. Trust me, that first site that I took an excerpt from is by FAR the best I've found so far. To the point and very un-cluttered. I also liked http://www.waterroots.com/aboutwaterroots.htm although I'm more about plain water in a vase type container than anything ... I will be looking into these clay pellets more!